Surviving Korean Winters and Summers in Gangnam: An Expat’s Brutal Honesty Guide

I still remember my first January in Gangnam. I stepped out of my officetel near Gangnam Station wearing what I thought was a serious winter coat — a decent wool peacoat I’d worn through winters in London and New York. Within ten minutes, I was shivering so hard I ducked into a convenience store just to stop my teeth from chattering. The ajumma behind the counter looked at me like I was insane. She wasn’t wrong. Nobody told me that Korean winter doesn’t just get cold — it gets personal. And nobody warned me that Korean summer would try to drown me in my own sweat six months later. If you’re new to Gangnam or planning to move here, this is the guide I wish someone had handed me on day one.

Tip 1: Understand the Two Kinds of Korean Winter (and Dress for the One You’re Actually In)

Korea doesn’t have one winter. It has two, and they’re happening simultaneously.

Outside, you’re dealing with a Siberian cold snap that can push wind chills below minus 15°C. The wind funnels between Gangnam’s glass towers like a knife. Inside, you’re dealing with ondol — underfloor heating — cranked to a level that would make a sauna feel underdressed. Cafes, subway cars, offices, and department stores are all heated to roughly the temperature of a Korean bathhouse.

The solution is layers you can strip fast. Invest in a proper long puffer coat (long enough to cover your thighs — this matters more than you think), thermal base layers from Uniqlo or a Korean brand like Black Yak, and a lightweight sweater you can survive wearing indoors. Do not wear a heavy sweater under a heavy coat. You will roast alive the moment you step into a Starbucks in Gangnam.

Also: buy heat packs. Boxes of them. Koreans sell them at every convenience store and Daiso for pocket change. Stuff them in your gloves and coat pockets. They are the single best winter purchase you will make.

Tip 2: Survive Summer With the Aircon Rules Nobody Explains to Foreigners

Korean summer is not hot. It is a humid, sticky, mosquito-infested endurance test that runs from late June through early September. The 장마 (monsoon season) dumps rain for weeks, and then the real heat arrives. Gangnam sidewalks become convection ovens.

Here’s what actually saves you:

First, learn to use the air conditioner properly. Korean aircon units (especially in officetels) are controlled by a remote with Korean-only buttons. If you can’t read them, you’ll either freeze or melt. Take a photo of the remote, use a translation app, and figure out the “dehumidify” (제습) mode. It’s more effective and cheaper than blasting the cooling mode all day.

Second, embrace the cooling culture. Korean cafes, malls, and subway stations are aggressively air-conditioned. Plan your day around them. The COEX Mall in Samseong is basically a giant air-conditioned city — use it as a refuge.

Third, dress for sweat. Linen, moisture-wicking fabrics, and loose fits. Skip the denim. You will regret it by 10 a.m.

Tip 3: Master the Seasonal Gadget Arsenal Before You Need It

Korea is a country that solves weather problems with products, and Gangnam is ground zero for this. You don’t have to suffer if you buy the right things at the right time.

For winter: a portable heating pad, electric blanket (전기요), and a humidifier are non-negotiable. Korean winters are dry — your skin, throat, and sinuses will hate you otherwise.

For summer: a portable mini fan (선풍기) is basically part of the uniform here. You’ll see everyone from students to salarymen carrying one. Buy a neck fan. Buy mosquito repellent patches. Buy a UV-blocking parasol if you want to survive the walk from Gangnam Station Exit 11 to your office without looking like a boiled lobster.

Buy these in the shoulder season — spring or autumn — when they’re cheap and stocked. By the time you realize you need them, everyone else has bought them too.

The Brutal Truth

Korean buildings are built for Korean weather, not for your comfort. The insulation is often terrible, the heating and cooling systems are controlled by your landlord or building management in ways you can’t override, and your utility bill in peak season can genuinely shock you. Some officetels in Gangnam charge separately for heating and cooling, and a careless summer can add 100,000 to 200,000 won to your monthly bill. Nobody warns you about this during the apartment tour. Read your contract, ask about 관리비 (maintenance fees) and utility structures before you sign, and budget for seasonal spikes. This isn’t a scam — it’s just the reality of Korean housing that most real estate agents conveniently forget to mention to foreigners.

Conclusion

Look, Korean weather is extreme, but millions of people live here happily — and so will you. The first winter will humble you. The first summer will break you a little. But by your second year, you’ll be the one smirking at the new foreigner shivering in a peacoat at Gangnam Station. Get the right gear, learn the rhythms of the seasons, and don’t be too proud to copy what the locals do. They’ve been surviving this for generations, and honestly? They’ve got it figured out. You will too. 화이팅.

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